The American Natural History Museum sure knows how to throw a ... lecture, and to prove it, they hosted "The History of the Mint Julep" last night. With a welcome drink at the door and two leading cocktail historians mixing the next round on stage, Lush Life felt right at home in the museum's Linder Theater.
(click the photo above to see the whole set)
Unable to resist the icy libation, I dug right in-nose first, as is customary with the julep. And, as expected, the mint hinted at the sensational cocktail to follow, but this version seemed to have more than the usual bourbon, sugar, and mint flavor I've come to expect in one of my favorite drinks. There was a richness and spice that I don't typically associate with this usually refreshing cocktail.
Dave Wondrich, our first speaker of the evening, mixed us a round of his signature recipe, which called for brandy (as a bourbon substitute) and a rum floater. The complexity and balance of this version of the Mint Julep was impressive and harkened back to colonial times, when brandy was the more commonly used spirit in what WAS America's favorite cocktail.
As one of this country's leading cocktail writers- running the show over at Esquire and publishing the now James Beard Awarded book, Imbibe!- Wondrich served as the perfect tour guide through his version of the Mint Julep's history. With his engaging, entertaining, but ultimately authoritative style of storytelling, Mr. Wondrich has this way of making you feel like a college freshman all over again. He makes you want to go home and research the reason he chose to float rum on top of the best cocktail you've ever had out of a plastic cup.
I'll be honest. Before tonight, I knew how to mix (not shake) a traditional (or so I thought) Mint Julep. I knew about the special strainer and the silver cups. I knew that, historically, Americans would drink a Julep with breakfast to get their juices flowing. But, I had no idea that the story of the Mint Julep was merely a metaphor for the way America drinks.
Throughout our history, the recipe of the Julep has adapted and evolved- reflecting the resources and demands of a people thirsty for cocktails, regardless of the limitations caused by civil war or changing moral attitudes. And, I wouldn't have known any of that without the righteous guidance and poetic incantations of Chris McMillian, the second lecturer.
McMillian brought to life the ritual of the Julep as he crushed ice with his wooden mallet, carefully released mint oil (without releasing the bitter essence), pouring the spirits and syrup, and garnishing with a single slapped mint sprig- all to the tune of J. Soule Smith's ode to the Julep documenting each step in the sacred process. He brought a reverence to the process that I'd never experienced watching a man mix a drink. Sure, the mixologists in this city take their jobs seriously. They carefully measure, mix, and shake to create that one divine sip, but somehow they lack this intimate connection to the history that comes so fluidly to Mr. McMillian. No, really. See for yourself.
The evening ended with a question and answer session that revealed just how much alcohol actually went into the two passed drinks- as audience members giggled out questions, sometimes repeating the previous inquirer. Of course, our lecturers were gracious and answered most of the questions to the best of their ability- dodging only questions about brand preferences (maybe because Maker's Mark and Pernod Ricard were kind enough to sponsor this event?).
After tonight, I just want to curl up with my ragged copy of Imbibe! and plan a trip to Chris McMillian's bar in New Orleans. Anyone want to join me?
Chalk one up for Daisy
Chalk one up for Daisy Buchanan from "The Great Gatsby". She was a big fan of the Mint Julep.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Great_Gatsby